I usually do not write a post on my blog about my travels, but I am making an exception this time. Visiting Faroe Islands has been on the go-to list for quite some time and while talking about going I noticed that Faroe Islands is still one of Europe's best kept secrets.
Stayed a week at Faroe Islands to get a first taste of this very special place. I will be sharing my experiences and activities as well as some more information about Faroe Islands.
Spoiler alert: Faroe Islands stole my heart and I will be back!
About Faroe Islands
The Faroe Islands is a self-governing archipelago, part of the Kingdom of Denmark. It comprises 18 rocky, volcanic islands between Iceland and Norway in the North Atlantic Ocean, connected by road tunnels, ferries, causeways and bridges. Hikers and bird-watchers are drawn to the islands’ mountains, valleys and grassy heathland, and steep coastal cliffs that harbour thousands of seabirds.
The weather is maritime, changeable and dominated by the Gulf Stream, which encircles the islands and moderates the climate, giving it an annual range of 3°C in winter and 11°C in summer. In sheltered valleys the temperature can reach the high teens, however highest temperature measures is 22°C. The Faroe Islands also lie in the stormiest part of the North Atlantic, directly in the path of the majority of Atlantic depressions and as a result are cloudy, wet and windy throughout the year. Knowing this, I feel very lucky as there was not much rain during my stay; wind yes, but I am quite used to that being Dutch and living pretty close to the coast.
One of the first things that visitors to Faroe Islands notice is the lack of trees... Except for a handful of small plantations, there are no indigenous trees. The Faroe Islands are mainly covered with grass, incl. flowers and herbs, almost like a pretty carpet, which is being nibbled away by the about 75.000-80.000 sheep living on the Faroe Islands. Compared to the people living in Faroe Islands, I have been informed it is about 55.000 inhabitants.
The Faroe Islands economy is mainly dependent on fishing and fish rearing and the islands operate a ca 320km exclusive fisheries zone offshore. Fishery products, such as farmed salmon, account for more than 90% of total exports and nearly half of the Faroese gross domestic product. As you travel across Faroe Islands, you cannot tail to spot the circular salmon pens, which are moored in the sheltered waters of fjords and bays across the islands.
Being active!
For a change this was a very active holiday for me. Usually during my day-to-day life I do try to work out several times a week, but on holiday I tend to hang around and relax more. Except for running and lifting in the hotel gym, so I at least did something during my lazy days. This time was different with some hikes and bike rides and last but not least a boat trip to Nolsoy to see some puffins.
Bike rides
During the stay in Faroe Island two bike tours were planned. The first bike ride was with a gravel bike and the second an e-bike; interesting difference. The first tour was actually to Nordadalsskard for some stunning view points. But... unfortunately that day it was very foggy; no way to see these great views. That did not spoil the fun as Bartal, guide & mechanic, from Rentabike had something else up his sleeve.
Instead we went to Klaksvik. A town on the island of Borðoy, in the Faroe Islands. The 1963 Christian’s Church has a 19th-century wooden boat hanging from the ceiling and a 4,000-year-old font. Norðoya Fornminnasavn museum is partly housed in an old pharmacy. Outside town, there are Viking-era remains at Úti í Grøv. Trails to Hálsur lookout and Klakkur peak offer rich birdlife and views across the straits to Kunoy and Kalsoy islands.
The second bike tour was to the historical village of Kirkjubøur. It is regarded as the most important historical site in the Faroe Islands. The village is located on the southern part of Streymoy Island. When in Kirkjubøur, make sure to experience the ruins of the Magnus Cathedral, the Saint Olav’s Church (Olavskirkjan), and the old 11th century log house, Roykstovan. Most houses in the village are painted black and turf-roofed which adds to the atmosphere. The bike tour was across a mountain pass 190m above sea level with a great panoramic view. Thanks to Bartal & Berit from Rent A Bike Faroe Islands for these two exiting bike rides!
Hiking tours
Also two hikes were planned for this trip. I am used to walking, but the Netherlands is flat whereas Faroe Islands is mountainous, so a nice challenge.
The first hike was so-called "Lake above the ocean" tour. A tour to some of the most sought after sights in Faroe Islands. This hike is up to the mind blowing Traelanipa cliff, with an amazing view over the "Lake above the ocean"; a wonderful experience. Sørvágsvatn is the largest lake in the Faroe Islands. It is situated on the island of Vágar between the municipalities of Sørvágur and Vágar. Its area is 3.4 km², more than three times the size of Fjallavatn, the second largest lake, also located on Vágar. Thanks to Andreas the hiking guide via Guide to Faroe Islands for this lovely experience!
The second hike was the "Footsteps of the Vikings" hike. A walking tour past Mannafelsdalur, the site of a bloody Viking battle 700 years ago, where mounds of grass still grow with a red hue, said to be the blood slain Viking rebels, while in the distance the NATO radar listening station nestled high above the Froese landscape reminds us of more modern conflicts. There are breathtaking panoramic views overlooking Vagoy and Trollkonufingur; just could not stop taking pictures! Then we walked over the ridge to an open landscape with lake views at Vattnsdalur and down to Nordadalur, with spectacular views of the islands Hestoy and Kortur where we took a break to nibble some rye bread and salmon for lunch. Thanks to guide Thomas from Heimdal Tours for this great hike with amazing views!
Nolsoy boat trip
A nice break from our daily busy lives on a "relaxing" boat tour around the beautiful island of Nolsoy. During a two hours trip we saw the amazing coast line of Nolsoy. Initially it was the plan to see the East side of Nolsoy, but the sea was quite rough, so we saw many sides of Nolsoy expect the East. It was very exiting to be on a boat for a change and see the famous puffins! Finally, we also set foot on Nolsoy and had a nice tour around the village. Thanks Flossi (hope the name is spelled correct) from Torshavn Sea Adventures for this great experience!
What else?
That were a lot of activities going on. But there was also some free time and that was used for some more cultural activities. Other places visited:
Torshavn National Museum To get a memorable experience of the nature, culture and history of the Faroe Islands, we recommend you to visit both the permanent exhibition and the open air museum. The whaling station is also open during the weekends in the summer.
The Whaling Station In 1905 the Norwegian Scottish company in Leith Scotland, Christian Salvesen & Co., established the whaling station við Áir. Today the whaling station við Áir is an industrial heritage site. The conservation project has been ongoing since 2011, but it’s possible to visit most of the houses and buildings on the station.
The National Gallery of the Faroe Islands is called "Listasavn Føroya" in Faroese. The National Gallery is located in Tórshavn and is the Faroe Islands' main museum for Faroese art. It was established in 1989. Under "History" and "The Building" you can read more about the museum's foundation and architecture. The collection consists of approx. 2,800 works, primarily paintings but also graphics, sculptures, installations and textiles. The oldest works are from the 1830s, and the collection goes all the way up to the present.
The Nordic House is a cultural institution including all kind of art forms for all age groups, mainly concerts, theatre and exhibitions. The house was built in 1983.
Vidarlundin Park a lovely park in the centre of Torshavn for a easy going troll.
Paname Cafe a nice place for home made food, sandwiches, tapas, coffee, cake, beer, wine and a cozy atmosphere. They also have a lovely garden where you can sit in case the weather is nice.
Bitin for tasty Nordic style sandwiches and salads. I had my rye bread and fried herring!
Mikkeller Bar Danish experimental microbrewery Mikkeler has now entered the Faroese market. The new bar, located in a 500-year-old house in the old part of Tórshavn, puts the most exciting beers from around the world and the Faroe Islands on 16 taps. The historic atmosphere and the impressive selection of craft beers form a perfect blend for beginners and connoisseurs alike.
Hotel Føroyar is as real as it gets if you want to uncover the Faroe Islands in its true essence. Take in the panorama view. Open the window. Touch the grass and breathe in the crisp air. Listen to the sound of the mountains. Walk down to the city. Enjoy some umami. Stimulate your senses. Refresh. Had a great stay here!
Last but not least, thank you Helena from Enjoy! for making these great arrangements pretty last minute. It was a wonderful experience and can't wait to visit Faroe Islands again!
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